Crested geckos make excellent pets. They are affordable to purchase and care for when compared to other species of geckos. Unlike other geckos, they come in a variety of colors and morphs. They also change colors to help blend in with their surroundings and better depict their mood; the darker a crested gecko appears the more unhappy it is. Because of these characteristics, they make very popular pets.

Most crested geckos that I have interacted with were very docile and calm; they were nervous at first but would not do any more then run away. As they became more accustomed to being handled they seemed to enjoy my company just as much as I enjoyed theirs. I would recommend crested geckos for any first-time reptile owner and even for those who are much more experienced caring for reptiles.

Natural Habitat: Crested Geckos were thought to be extinct until just recently when they were found by independent researchers in the 1990s. The island of New Caledonia is found in the southeast Pacific, just east of Australia. The island consists of coastal plains with inland forests and mountains. The island, roughly the size of New Jersey, is a typical tropical island, hot and humid. However, the temperature is definitely tolerable: staying between 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit for most of the year. Rarely does it get below 70 degrees.

Life Expectancy: The life expectancy of a crested gecko in captivity and the wild is as of yet unknown. The specimens that were caught by the researchers are still alive and the first acquisitions of top breeders are still alive today. It is believed that like many other reptile species, they can live 10-15 years in the best conditions.

Caging Requirements: Crested Geckos are arboreal, meaning they are tree dwelling species. You are more likely to find them up in a tree then down on the ground. Due to this, any enclosure you house them in must be higher then it is long and wide.
For crested geckos, a screen cage is better then a cage that is built of solid material like woos or glass; this is not saying that the latter material is bad. Mesh is better because it allows for more ventilation and doesn’t trap heat inside the cage. Geckos do not need as high a temperature as other species of lizards.

Babies: Crested gecko babies are indeed quite small, starting out at barely an inch when they hatch. Individuals up to 4 inches long, from head to tail can easily be housed together in a 10-gallon tank, 20”x10”x12”; although I would never house more then four individuals together.

Juveniles-Adults: Crested geckos more then five inches long can be housed in 20-gallon high aquariums, 24”x12”x16”. However, I use and recommend 22-gallon, which are 13.5"x 13.5"x25", Reptariums. Height is always better when considering a cage with crested geckos.
Be careful when housing larger crested geckos together because two males, males can be determined by a very noticeable bump underneath their tails, kept in the same cage will fight over territory when they reach breeding age. At most, I recommend housing one male with 3 females; less is also fine.

Caging Substrate: As always, substrate is a big debate. One thing that is agreed upon, substrates that hold humidity such as cypress mulch, Eco-Earth, Repti-bark or even potting soil, but without the white pellets or chemicals, is better then dry substrates. I usually buy playground cypress mulch and leave it out in the rain so it gets sopping wet. Paper towels and newspapers, while not aesthetically pleasing, could be used as substrates in a pinch.
In addition, I add a layer of moss; it does not matter what kind, on top of the layer of substrate. Since it absorbs water, it will add to the overall humidity of the cage as well as to the display if you care to keep them in a more natural looking environment.

Caging Decorations: In the wild, crested geckos like to hide up in the leaves of trees or within tall bushes. It is best to add plastic plants, those that have bases and the ones with section cups to hide up on the walls, and pieces of cork that look like trunks or branches. Plants not only provide comfort and a hiding spot for your geckos but they also help hold humidity in the cage and add to the overall appearance of your pets’ enclosure.

Temperature and Lighting Requirements: The temperature in a crested gecko's enclosure should be about room temperature. For those of you with different room temperatures then mine, 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit is the perfect temperature, the night temperature shouldn't be any lower then 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything lower can lead to animal sickness and animal stress. In addition, if the temperatures during the day are above 80 degrees the same adverse affects could happen.
Lighting is arguable when it comes to crested geckos. Crested geckos are nocturnal by nature so many hepetoculturists argue, and I agree with them, that crested geckos do not require lights. However, others have said that all creatures require Ultraviolet (A and B) rays. The only lights my crested geckos get are the fluorescent lights in the room and they don't seem to have any problems. This is not saying getting them an Ultraviolet light is bad and if you do get one for your geckos, be sure that it does not give heat too or you will end up cooking your geckos.

Food: Crested geckos are certainly much easier to feed then many other reptiles species. They eat about four or five crickets a day, the size of their crickets depends on the individual; don’t feed them anything bigger then half the size of their head. Crested geckos get the other nutrition they need from eat soft/rotten fruit in the wild. To duplicate this, I feed them baby food. My geckos get apricot and peach flavored baby food poured out in a jar lid, alternating the flavors every day. The adults eat about a tablespoon a day while the babies eat a teaspoon. Other keepers use different flavors but mine seem to enjoy the flavors I provide them. You can go through your own trial-and-error phase to find out what your crested geckos like best.

Hydration: In the wild, crested geckos lick drops of water off plants, tree trunks and leaves in the wild. To mimic this, I mist their cage completely several times a day. This does two things. First, it gives the water they need to survive. Secondly, it adds to the overall humidity to the cage. All of the mulch, moss and plants wouldn’t do you any good without water. Crested geckos will not drink out of water dishes because they are unable to see standing water.

In Summary: When purchasing a gecko, and I would always start out with a baby so it grows up with you; you know it knows your habits and you know the habits of the gecko, you’ll need several things. First, you will need a cage. Secondly, you will need substrate for the cage. Finally, you will need plants and branches to decorate the cage with.
Good luck and happy herping!